Tomatoes
(Information from various sources)
Wikipedia:
The tomato, Solanum Lycopersicon, is a plant whose fruit is an edible berry that is eaten as a vegetable. The tomato is a member of the nightshade family that includes tobacco, potato, and chili peppers. It originated from and was domesticated in western South America.
Gardener’s world:
If you've never grown tomatoes before, you may not be aware that there are different types to choose from. This goes further than tomato cultivars (the name of your tomato), or the colour you want your tomatoes to be.
When choosing tomatoes, ask yourself how you want the plant to grow and what you want to use the tomatoes for. Then look at cultivars based on colour, flavour and hardiness. This way, you'll always know what you're growing and won't be faced with any surprises.
Tomatoes are divided into two main types: cordon (indeterminate) or bush (determinate). This identifies how the plant grows. Cordon types are the most commonly grown and grow as cordons (single-stemmed plants). They grow to heights of up to 2.5m and require support and regular pruning of sideshoots.
Determinate tomatoes are bushier, shorter plants that stop growing after a certain size and produce all their fruit at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, are vining plants that continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season until frost.
A few varieties are semi-determinate. These tomatoes grow in the same way as indeterminate varieties but are shorter.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Also known as vining or cordon tomatoes, are plants that continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the growing season. They are tall, sprawling plants that need support like stakes or cages. Unlike determinate tomatoes, which produce all their fruit at once, indeterminate tomatoes provide a succession of fruit over a longer period.
Pruning indeterminate tomatoes improves fruit production by removing extra growth that diverts energy away from developing fruits. Removing extra growth redirects energy back to the fruits and reduces fruit shading, both of which will help fruits mature more quickly.
You should remove no more than one-third of your tomato plant's leaves. This will help balance vegetative growth with fruit production. Focus on removing older, lower leaves, especially those that are yellowing, touching the ground, or shaded.
Here's a more detailed guide:
1. Removing Lower Leaves:
By following these guidelines, you can prune your tomato plants effectively and ensure a healthy and productive harvest.
Indeterminate varieties will reach and exceed the top of the stakes. At that point, cut the tops off of indeterminate tomatoes to maintain a tidy hedge and to prevent the row from becoming top-heavy.
Usually, indeterminate tomatoes grow best with one or two low side shoots; so, remove all side shoots above this. The lower shoots help make the plant more stable and is where they bear fruit.
Bush types grow as a bush, with many stems. Often referred to as dwarf tomatoes, they're perfect for growing in pots and hanging baskets, and don’t require any pruning. They're perfect for beginners as they require less work than indeterminate types. Fruits are usually small, cherry types.
Tomatoes planted too closely together may be more likely to develop problems, such as: Disease – A lot of plant diseases flourish on moist leaves. If tomatoes are planted so closely together that sunlight and air can't dry out the leaves, the plants will be more likely to develop harmful diseases.
Tomatoes planted too closely together may be more likely to develop problems, such as: Disease – A lot of plant diseases flourish on moist leaves. If tomatoes are planted so closely together that sunlight and air can't dry out the leaves, the plants will be more likely to develop harmful diseases.
1. Marigolds
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are often recommended as tomato companions, but their benefits are often misunderstood. Research has shown that certain varieties (‘Nemagold’, ‘Golden Guardian’) help control root-knot nematodes when planted as a cover crop before tomatoes. They also attract beneficial insects like ladybugs, which feed on aphids. And, while some gardeners say that the scent repels flying pests like the moths that become tomato hornworms, some studies disagree.
2. Garlic
Garlic is a natural pest repellent that can help keep moths away from your tomatoes by masking the smell of ripening fruit. It also keeps other pests like cabbage loopers and root maggots away from plants with its strong odour.
3. Onions
Like garlic, onions are also known as natural pest repellents due to their strong odor. They are great companion plants for tomatoes. But, if you're struggling with thrips in your garden, avoid planting onions, leeks, or garlic near your tomatoes. While they are normally great companions, these root veggies are susceptible to thrips too.
4. Lavender
The sweet-smelling flowers of lavender plants repel mosquitoes and other flying pests while also keeping aphids away from nearby crops such as strawberries or cucumbers (but not blueberries). Lavender also attracts bees that help pollinate your crops, which can lead to better yields and higher quality produce.
5. Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil is a popular tomato companion, often said to improve flavour and repel pests. While no scientific evidence confirms basil enhances tomato taste, it does attract pollinators and can help reduce pest pressure. Some studies suggest basil may deter thrips and tomato hornworms, but results are mixed. Regardless, basil is a great addition to a tomato bed—it thrives in the same conditions and pairs well in the kitchen, too!
6. Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Like basil, chives will protect against predators like aphids and spider mites by producing natural oils in its leaves that give off an onion-like odour when crushed or brushed up against—a smell most bugs don't like.
7. Asparagus
This is a textbook example of a symbiotic relationship between plants. Tomatoes produce a natural chemical called solanine, which is a repellent for the asparagus beetle. In turn, asparagus produces a natural fungicide that helps prevent early blight and botrytis. It also helps prevent root-knot nematodes in the soil.
8. Legumes/Bush Beans
Beans, as nitrogen-fixing plants, can enrich the soil and benefit heavy feeders like tomatoes.
"Nitrogen-fixing species, such as those in the legume family, provide this nutrient to other plants and microbes in their immediate vicinity University
9. Parsley
If you're struggling with aphids destroying your tomato plants, you definitely need to plant a barrier of parsley. Parsley attracts hoverflies, and their favourite food is aphids! Be aware though, that not every tomato variety sits well with parsley, so do a little extra research before adding parsley near your tomato plants.
10. Peppers
This is up for debate, but the general consensus is that peppers and tomatoes are okay together—and you’ll be able to make a mean salsa. But there can be an increased risk of disease as they are both from the nightshade family.
What Not to Plant with Your Tomatoes
Now that you know the best 10 plants to grow with tomatoes, here’s a list of plants that don't mix well with them. These plants can actually inhibit the growth of tomatoes by increasing the possibility of diseases and competing for nutrients in the soil.
Cherry tomatoes
These are the smallest and often sweetest tomatoes, ranging in size from the size of a grape size to the size of a plum. They ripen sooner than larger varieties and are perfect for eating raw in salads and pasta dishes.
Salad tomatoes
Medium-sized tomatoes, they can be used in a variety of different ways, including in salads, sauces, roasting and chopped into cooked dishes.
Beefsteak tomatoes
Beefsteak tomato variety 'Costoluto Fiorentino'
These are the biggest tomatoes, which have a thick, meaty texture. They're ideal for grilling and stuffing and using in sauces.
Plum tomatoes
Plum tomato variety 'San Marzano'
These have an oval shape and can be the same size as a cherry tomato, or as large as a salad tomato. They're fleshy and have few seeds, which makes them perfect for using in sauces and soups. They're also the best option for sun-drying.
AI
https://www.growveg.co.uk/guides/5-secrets-to-growing-amazing-tomatoes-that-actually-work/
Like many vegetables, tomatoes prefer a goldilocks soil that is moisture retentive yet well drained and, of course, rich in nutrients. The very best way to achieve that is simply to add plenty of well-rotted organic matter to the surface of your soil in the weeks or months before planting. Adding it well in advance of planting will give worms and other soil organisms time to break it down a bit so it’s in good condition with plenty of available nutrients when your tomatoes are planted.
To get the best from your plants, they need plenty of light and space. They’ll need at least 18in (45cm) between plants and a minimum of two feet (60cm) between rows. Proper spacing not only means more light can reach the plants, it also improves airflow around them, which is a major step towards avoiding any disease problems.
Persuade Tomatoes to Grow More Roots:
Tomatoes are incredible plants because they can produce roots at any point along their stem. With this in mind, we can plant them a bit deeper than most plants so that more roots are produced at the base of the stem. This helps anchor the plants into position, creating a really strong foundation for success, and more roots will help plants to draw on more moisture and more nutrients. Dig planting holes that are quite a bit deeper than the depth of the root ball so you can bury some of the stem.
If you’re planting into a growbag, you can encourage these extra roots by planting your tomatoes into the top of the bag as usual, and then popping a bottomless pot over the top. Fill that part way with extra potting mix to bury the stem so they can root into that. It also means that when you water into it, the water is held in a reservoir at the top rather than pouring off, and can drain directly down to the roots below to avoid wastage.
Fish Fertiliser For Tomatoes
I’d heard of fish heads being used in the base of planting holes and, if I’m totally honest, have rather scoffed at the idea in the past. But on doing a little more research it turns it this isn’t such a bad idea after all. Fish is loaded with nutrients which, as it breaks down into the soil, the tomato’s roots can tap into. Native Americans have been doing this for thousands of years, planting the ‘three sisters’ of corn, squash and beans over fish with great results. And we’re often advised to water on fish emulsion or use fish-based fertiliser, so it makes sense, right?
Hold your nose and put a couple of fish heads into each planting hole, then cover with a layer of the dug-out soil. This both serves as a buffer between the roots and fresh fish until it has started breaking down a bit and should hopefully help to mask the smell from wandering wildlife and pet cats and dogs!
Plant your tomato on top, then it’s simply a matter of back-filling with the soil, burying the bottom few inches of stem up for good measure. Remove the seedling leaves and perhaps the first pair of true leaves to enable deeper planting. If you’d prefer not to use animal products, comfrey leaves make a great vegan alternative.
To finish, water on a weak liquid seaweed solution to give your plants a bit of a lift and help settle them in. Once the plants start flowering, give them an occasional liquid feed of either tomato fertiliser or a home-made liquid feed.
Indeterminate tomatoes need strong, tall stakes to keep them up off the ground
Supporting Tomatoes
Most tomatoes appreciate some form of support to keep them up off the ground so that fruits don’t rot or get eaten by the likes of slugs. How you support tomatoes depends on what type you have:
Determinate (or bush) tomatoes get their name because they have a determined height they’ll get to, and they won’t grow any taller – unlike those ever-skyward indeterminate tomatoes! The simplest way to support these determinate tomatoes is with bamboo canes or stakes, which should be sufficient for even the heaviest plants laden with weighty fruits.
Indeterminate tomatoes, also known as cordon or vining tomatoes, easily reach head height or even more, so for those you’ll need sturdy stakes. Push them down into the soil so they stand nice and firm, then tie the stems in as they grow. Do be careful not to drive them right through the roots of your young plants though or perhaps get the supports in position before planting.
To encourage efficient flower and fruit production, pinch out sideshoots coming from the main stem, which will also help to keep plants from wasting too much energy on excess foliage. This pruning is only necessary for indeterminate tomatoes, and if you’re in a hot climate you may find that tomatoes grow so vigorously that you can get away without pruning. But in my chillier climate, removing those sideshoots is a must!
A tomato cage makes a sturdy support for vigorous determinate tomatoes
How to Make Tomato Cages
Tomato cages are a great alternative for supporting determinate tomatoes, particularly vigorous varieties that produce lots and lots of branches. Unlike vining types, determinate tomatoes don’t need any pruning and tend to crop over a much shorter period, which makes cages very suitable. But purpose-sold tomato cages don’t come cheap! So, its common sense to make your own.
The easiest way to do this is to use a sheet of concrete reinforcing mesh, or remesh. Alternatively, use cattle fencing. It comes on a roll, which means it’s easily cut to suit the width of cage you’d like. A diameter or about 18in (45cm) is good, though you might want to go a bit wider than this for the most vigorous varieties. To fix the ends together you could use cable ties or even strong string or just fold the cut ends of the wire around the vertical strands of wire on the other end. Sometimes you need to flex or roll the wire cage to create more a perfectly round shape.
Tie the young plants to stout lengths of bamboo canes to support them while they’re still small. The cage will come into its own as the plants bulk out. Finally, anchor each cage to the ground by pushing in bamboo canes at opposite sides. Either weaving the canes through the horizontal wires or tie the cage to them.
Grow dill near your tomatoes to improve pollination
Companion Plants for Tomatoes
Your tomatoes are planted, you’ve watered them in, and you could just leave it at that. But what better way to finish off your totally terrific toms than with a support act of companion flowers!
Marigolds make excellent companions for tomatoes. Not only will they add a flash of colour as they carpet the ground beneath your tomatoes, but they’ll also help to deter whitefly. Dot them here and there at the foot of the tomato plants and, in a few weeks’ time when they come into flower, they’ll really tempt in the pollinating insects.
Another great companion for tomatoes is dill. If you’ve ever seen dill in flower, you’ll know how much beneficial bugs like hoverflies absolutely love it! If you’re wondering what makes a good companion to any vegetable, check out our Garden Planner, which includes a Companion Planting feature that shows ideal bedfellows for any selected crop.
And finally, basil - because basil and tomatoes are the perfect pairing after all! Plant them next to your tomatoes so you can pick some leaves when you pick your tomatoes.
(Information from various sources)
Wikipedia:
The tomato, Solanum Lycopersicon, is a plant whose fruit is an edible berry that is eaten as a vegetable. The tomato is a member of the nightshade family that includes tobacco, potato, and chili peppers. It originated from and was domesticated in western South America.
Gardener’s world:
If you've never grown tomatoes before, you may not be aware that there are different types to choose from. This goes further than tomato cultivars (the name of your tomato), or the colour you want your tomatoes to be.
When choosing tomatoes, ask yourself how you want the plant to grow and what you want to use the tomatoes for. Then look at cultivars based on colour, flavour and hardiness. This way, you'll always know what you're growing and won't be faced with any surprises.
Tomatoes are divided into two main types: cordon (indeterminate) or bush (determinate). This identifies how the plant grows. Cordon types are the most commonly grown and grow as cordons (single-stemmed plants). They grow to heights of up to 2.5m and require support and regular pruning of sideshoots.
Determinate tomatoes are bushier, shorter plants that stop growing after a certain size and produce all their fruit at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, are vining plants that continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season until frost.
A few varieties are semi-determinate. These tomatoes grow in the same way as indeterminate varieties but are shorter.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Also known as vining or cordon tomatoes, are plants that continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the growing season. They are tall, sprawling plants that need support like stakes or cages. Unlike determinate tomatoes, which produce all their fruit at once, indeterminate tomatoes provide a succession of fruit over a longer period.
Pruning indeterminate tomatoes improves fruit production by removing extra growth that diverts energy away from developing fruits. Removing extra growth redirects energy back to the fruits and reduces fruit shading, both of which will help fruits mature more quickly.
You should remove no more than one-third of your tomato plant's leaves. This will help balance vegetative growth with fruit production. Focus on removing older, lower leaves, especially those that are yellowing, touching the ground, or shaded.
Here's a more detailed guide:
1. Removing Lower Leaves:
- Start at the bottom: Older leaves at the base of the plant are less productive and can be a source of disease.
- Remove leaves touching the ground: These are prone to disease and can be a breeding ground for pests.
- Consider leaves that are yellowing or blighted: These are likely not contributing to the plant's health.
- Remove leaves just below the first few flower sets: This will direct the plant's energy towards fruit production.
- Remove suckers (side shoots) along the main stem: These also compete with the plant for nutrients.
- Prune regularly: Aim to remove a few leaves each week to maintain a healthy balance.
- As the plant gets larger: You'll need to remove more leaves to keep the plant open and airy.
- When fruit starts to ripen: Removing some foliage can help the fruit get more sunlight and ripen faster.
- Before you start planting: You can prune tomato plants to remove leaves on the lower 6 to 12 inches of the main stem to prevent disease.
- Don't remove too many leaves at once: This can stress the plant.
- Remove leaves that are crowded or crossing: This improves air circulation and helps prevent disease.
- Thin out the middle of the plant: This also improves air circulation and sunlight penetration.
- Don't remove leaves that are still green and healthy:
- Don't remove leaves that are providing cover for fruit:
By following these guidelines, you can prune your tomato plants effectively and ensure a healthy and productive harvest.
Indeterminate varieties will reach and exceed the top of the stakes. At that point, cut the tops off of indeterminate tomatoes to maintain a tidy hedge and to prevent the row from becoming top-heavy.
Usually, indeterminate tomatoes grow best with one or two low side shoots; so, remove all side shoots above this. The lower shoots help make the plant more stable and is where they bear fruit.
Bush types grow as a bush, with many stems. Often referred to as dwarf tomatoes, they're perfect for growing in pots and hanging baskets, and don’t require any pruning. They're perfect for beginners as they require less work than indeterminate types. Fruits are usually small, cherry types.
Tomatoes planted too closely together may be more likely to develop problems, such as: Disease – A lot of plant diseases flourish on moist leaves. If tomatoes are planted so closely together that sunlight and air can't dry out the leaves, the plants will be more likely to develop harmful diseases.
Tomatoes planted too closely together may be more likely to develop problems, such as: Disease – A lot of plant diseases flourish on moist leaves. If tomatoes are planted so closely together that sunlight and air can't dry out the leaves, the plants will be more likely to develop harmful diseases.
1. Marigolds
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are often recommended as tomato companions, but their benefits are often misunderstood. Research has shown that certain varieties (‘Nemagold’, ‘Golden Guardian’) help control root-knot nematodes when planted as a cover crop before tomatoes. They also attract beneficial insects like ladybugs, which feed on aphids. And, while some gardeners say that the scent repels flying pests like the moths that become tomato hornworms, some studies disagree.
2. Garlic
Garlic is a natural pest repellent that can help keep moths away from your tomatoes by masking the smell of ripening fruit. It also keeps other pests like cabbage loopers and root maggots away from plants with its strong odour.
3. Onions
Like garlic, onions are also known as natural pest repellents due to their strong odor. They are great companion plants for tomatoes. But, if you're struggling with thrips in your garden, avoid planting onions, leeks, or garlic near your tomatoes. While they are normally great companions, these root veggies are susceptible to thrips too.
4. Lavender
The sweet-smelling flowers of lavender plants repel mosquitoes and other flying pests while also keeping aphids away from nearby crops such as strawberries or cucumbers (but not blueberries). Lavender also attracts bees that help pollinate your crops, which can lead to better yields and higher quality produce.
5. Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil is a popular tomato companion, often said to improve flavour and repel pests. While no scientific evidence confirms basil enhances tomato taste, it does attract pollinators and can help reduce pest pressure. Some studies suggest basil may deter thrips and tomato hornworms, but results are mixed. Regardless, basil is a great addition to a tomato bed—it thrives in the same conditions and pairs well in the kitchen, too!
6. Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Like basil, chives will protect against predators like aphids and spider mites by producing natural oils in its leaves that give off an onion-like odour when crushed or brushed up against—a smell most bugs don't like.
7. Asparagus
This is a textbook example of a symbiotic relationship between plants. Tomatoes produce a natural chemical called solanine, which is a repellent for the asparagus beetle. In turn, asparagus produces a natural fungicide that helps prevent early blight and botrytis. It also helps prevent root-knot nematodes in the soil.
8. Legumes/Bush Beans
Beans, as nitrogen-fixing plants, can enrich the soil and benefit heavy feeders like tomatoes.
"Nitrogen-fixing species, such as those in the legume family, provide this nutrient to other plants and microbes in their immediate vicinity University
9. Parsley
If you're struggling with aphids destroying your tomato plants, you definitely need to plant a barrier of parsley. Parsley attracts hoverflies, and their favourite food is aphids! Be aware though, that not every tomato variety sits well with parsley, so do a little extra research before adding parsley near your tomato plants.
10. Peppers
This is up for debate, but the general consensus is that peppers and tomatoes are okay together—and you’ll be able to make a mean salsa. But there can be an increased risk of disease as they are both from the nightshade family.
What Not to Plant with Your Tomatoes
Now that you know the best 10 plants to grow with tomatoes, here’s a list of plants that don't mix well with them. These plants can actually inhibit the growth of tomatoes by increasing the possibility of diseases and competing for nutrients in the soil.
- Dill: Can inhibit tomato growth and attract tomato hornworms
- Eggplant: Another nightshade, susceptible to similar pests and diseases
- Brussel Sprouts: Competes for nutrients and may attract cabbage worms
- Cabbage: Heavy feeder that competes for nutrients and space
- Corn: Attracts a shared pest, tomato fruit worms (corn earworms)
- Cucumber: Heavy water needs, increased the risk of fungal diseases
- Potatoes: Another nightshade, vulnerable to blight and pests from tomatoes
- Strawberries: Susceptible to verticillium wilt which can spread to tomatoes
- Cauliflower: Competes for nutrients and stunts tomato growth
- Broccoli: Heavy feeder that depletes the soil, reducing tomato yields
Cherry tomatoes
These are the smallest and often sweetest tomatoes, ranging in size from the size of a grape size to the size of a plum. They ripen sooner than larger varieties and are perfect for eating raw in salads and pasta dishes.
Salad tomatoes
Medium-sized tomatoes, they can be used in a variety of different ways, including in salads, sauces, roasting and chopped into cooked dishes.
Beefsteak tomatoes
Beefsteak tomato variety 'Costoluto Fiorentino'
These are the biggest tomatoes, which have a thick, meaty texture. They're ideal for grilling and stuffing and using in sauces.
Plum tomatoes
Plum tomato variety 'San Marzano'
These have an oval shape and can be the same size as a cherry tomato, or as large as a salad tomato. They're fleshy and have few seeds, which makes them perfect for using in sauces and soups. They're also the best option for sun-drying.
AI
- 1. Choosing a Location:
- 2. Sowing Seeds:
- 3. Germination and Seedling Care:
- 4. Hardening Off:
- 5. Planting:
- 6. Support and Pruning:
- 7. Watering:
- 8. Fertilizing:
- 9. Harvesting:
https://www.growveg.co.uk/guides/5-secrets-to-growing-amazing-tomatoes-that-actually-work/
Like many vegetables, tomatoes prefer a goldilocks soil that is moisture retentive yet well drained and, of course, rich in nutrients. The very best way to achieve that is simply to add plenty of well-rotted organic matter to the surface of your soil in the weeks or months before planting. Adding it well in advance of planting will give worms and other soil organisms time to break it down a bit so it’s in good condition with plenty of available nutrients when your tomatoes are planted.
To get the best from your plants, they need plenty of light and space. They’ll need at least 18in (45cm) between plants and a minimum of two feet (60cm) between rows. Proper spacing not only means more light can reach the plants, it also improves airflow around them, which is a major step towards avoiding any disease problems.
Persuade Tomatoes to Grow More Roots:
Tomatoes are incredible plants because they can produce roots at any point along their stem. With this in mind, we can plant them a bit deeper than most plants so that more roots are produced at the base of the stem. This helps anchor the plants into position, creating a really strong foundation for success, and more roots will help plants to draw on more moisture and more nutrients. Dig planting holes that are quite a bit deeper than the depth of the root ball so you can bury some of the stem.
If you’re planting into a growbag, you can encourage these extra roots by planting your tomatoes into the top of the bag as usual, and then popping a bottomless pot over the top. Fill that part way with extra potting mix to bury the stem so they can root into that. It also means that when you water into it, the water is held in a reservoir at the top rather than pouring off, and can drain directly down to the roots below to avoid wastage.
Fish Fertiliser For Tomatoes
I’d heard of fish heads being used in the base of planting holes and, if I’m totally honest, have rather scoffed at the idea in the past. But on doing a little more research it turns it this isn’t such a bad idea after all. Fish is loaded with nutrients which, as it breaks down into the soil, the tomato’s roots can tap into. Native Americans have been doing this for thousands of years, planting the ‘three sisters’ of corn, squash and beans over fish with great results. And we’re often advised to water on fish emulsion or use fish-based fertiliser, so it makes sense, right?
Hold your nose and put a couple of fish heads into each planting hole, then cover with a layer of the dug-out soil. This both serves as a buffer between the roots and fresh fish until it has started breaking down a bit and should hopefully help to mask the smell from wandering wildlife and pet cats and dogs!
Plant your tomato on top, then it’s simply a matter of back-filling with the soil, burying the bottom few inches of stem up for good measure. Remove the seedling leaves and perhaps the first pair of true leaves to enable deeper planting. If you’d prefer not to use animal products, comfrey leaves make a great vegan alternative.
To finish, water on a weak liquid seaweed solution to give your plants a bit of a lift and help settle them in. Once the plants start flowering, give them an occasional liquid feed of either tomato fertiliser or a home-made liquid feed.
Indeterminate tomatoes need strong, tall stakes to keep them up off the ground
Supporting Tomatoes
Most tomatoes appreciate some form of support to keep them up off the ground so that fruits don’t rot or get eaten by the likes of slugs. How you support tomatoes depends on what type you have:
Determinate (or bush) tomatoes get their name because they have a determined height they’ll get to, and they won’t grow any taller – unlike those ever-skyward indeterminate tomatoes! The simplest way to support these determinate tomatoes is with bamboo canes or stakes, which should be sufficient for even the heaviest plants laden with weighty fruits.
Indeterminate tomatoes, also known as cordon or vining tomatoes, easily reach head height or even more, so for those you’ll need sturdy stakes. Push them down into the soil so they stand nice and firm, then tie the stems in as they grow. Do be careful not to drive them right through the roots of your young plants though or perhaps get the supports in position before planting.
To encourage efficient flower and fruit production, pinch out sideshoots coming from the main stem, which will also help to keep plants from wasting too much energy on excess foliage. This pruning is only necessary for indeterminate tomatoes, and if you’re in a hot climate you may find that tomatoes grow so vigorously that you can get away without pruning. But in my chillier climate, removing those sideshoots is a must!
A tomato cage makes a sturdy support for vigorous determinate tomatoes
How to Make Tomato Cages
Tomato cages are a great alternative for supporting determinate tomatoes, particularly vigorous varieties that produce lots and lots of branches. Unlike vining types, determinate tomatoes don’t need any pruning and tend to crop over a much shorter period, which makes cages very suitable. But purpose-sold tomato cages don’t come cheap! So, its common sense to make your own.
The easiest way to do this is to use a sheet of concrete reinforcing mesh, or remesh. Alternatively, use cattle fencing. It comes on a roll, which means it’s easily cut to suit the width of cage you’d like. A diameter or about 18in (45cm) is good, though you might want to go a bit wider than this for the most vigorous varieties. To fix the ends together you could use cable ties or even strong string or just fold the cut ends of the wire around the vertical strands of wire on the other end. Sometimes you need to flex or roll the wire cage to create more a perfectly round shape.
Tie the young plants to stout lengths of bamboo canes to support them while they’re still small. The cage will come into its own as the plants bulk out. Finally, anchor each cage to the ground by pushing in bamboo canes at opposite sides. Either weaving the canes through the horizontal wires or tie the cage to them.
Grow dill near your tomatoes to improve pollination
Companion Plants for Tomatoes
Your tomatoes are planted, you’ve watered them in, and you could just leave it at that. But what better way to finish off your totally terrific toms than with a support act of companion flowers!
Marigolds make excellent companions for tomatoes. Not only will they add a flash of colour as they carpet the ground beneath your tomatoes, but they’ll also help to deter whitefly. Dot them here and there at the foot of the tomato plants and, in a few weeks’ time when they come into flower, they’ll really tempt in the pollinating insects.
Another great companion for tomatoes is dill. If you’ve ever seen dill in flower, you’ll know how much beneficial bugs like hoverflies absolutely love it! If you’re wondering what makes a good companion to any vegetable, check out our Garden Planner, which includes a Companion Planting feature that shows ideal bedfellows for any selected crop.
And finally, basil - because basil and tomatoes are the perfect pairing after all! Plant them next to your tomatoes so you can pick some leaves when you pick your tomatoes.
